The History of Chain Maille: From Celtic Armour to Handmade Jewellery

As someone who makes chain maille jewellery, it feels only right to share a little about the history of this fascinating craft. What began as armour on the battlefield thousands of years ago has evolved into a decorative artform — and now a thriving jewellery style — that continues to capture imaginations across the world.

Where Does the Word “Maille” Come From?

The origins of the word maille are not entirely clear. The first written versions appear in Old French and Anglo-Norman as maille, maile or male. These gradually evolved into Middle English spellings such as mailye, maile and meile.

Today, we tend to say chain maille or simply maille — but whichever version you use, it still carries centuries of history.

1,500 Weaves (and Counting)

According to the Maille Artisan’s International League, there are over 1,500 different chain maille weaves. I’ll be honest — I doubt I’ll ever master every single one, but it shows just how versatile this craft really is!

Most of these designs fall into three main categories:

• Persian Weaves – flowing, rope-like structures.

• European Weaves – flat, fabric-like patterns, similar to traditional armour.

• Japanese Weaves – geometric and often more open in appearance.

Each style has its own charm and challenges, and all three influence modern jewellery design.

Ancient Origins: The Celts and Beyond

Many archaeologists believe that chain maille was invented by the Celts. Rusted remains have been found in Celtic graves dating as far back as 400 BC — that’s well over 2,500 years ago!

Chain maille armour was originally crafted from alternating solid and riveted rings, often made of wrought iron and, later, steel. It was strong, flexible, and offered warriors vital protection in battle.

Maille in the Modern World

While we no longer wear chain maille tunics into combat (thankfully!), this remarkable craft has found plenty of uses:

• Protective gear → butchers use chain maille gloves, and divers wear full suits to guard against shark bites.

• Industrial safety → chain maille sheets and curtains are used to shield workers from shrapnel or flying debris.

• Re-enactments → chain maille remains hugely popular with history enthusiasts and battle re-enactors.

• Military tradition → even today, some regiments of the British Army use chain maille details on uniforms, such as decorative epaulettes.

  
  

From Armour to Art

Maille may have begun as armour, but it never lost its connection to beauty and craftsmanship. Over the centuries, it became a symbol of status and decoration. Today, it’s popular in sculpture, costume design, and, of course, handmade jewellery.

Modern jewellery makers often use metals like aluminium, copper, bronze, or stainless steel. Precious metals such as sterling silver and gold bring a touch of luxury, while anodised aluminium offers bright, colourful options for contemporary designs.

A Living Tradition

What makes chain maille so special is that it has survived the ages — shifting from battlefield to workshop, from function to fashion. Each piece we create today carries echoes of its Celtic origins, medieval glory, and military heritage.

So next time you see a pair of earrings, a bracelet, or a necklace woven from tiny rings, remember: you’re holding more than jewellery. You’re holding a piece of history, reimagined for the modern world.