Materials: Choosing the Best Metals for Chain Maille Jewellery

Chain maille, an ancient art form with deep roots in history, has evolved into a captivating craft for creating intricate and unique jewellery. One of the most important choices you’ll make as a maker is selecting the right metals for chain maille. The metal you choose will influence the look, weight, durability and overall character of your designs.

In this guide, we’ll explore the key factors to consider when choosing metals for chain maille jewellery and highlight some of the most popular options used by makers across the UK.

1. Material Matters: Popular Metal Choices for Chain Maille

When it comes to metals for chain maille, there’s no shortage of choice. Here are some of the favourites:

Aluminium Lightweight and easy to work with, aluminium is ideal for beginners. Anodised aluminium comes in a wide range of colours, perfect for creating bright, bold jewellery. It’s not as strong as other metals, so it’s best for lighter, decorative pieces rather than everyday wear.

Copper Warm, traditional and affordable, copper is popular for its versatility and character. It’s excellent for practising new weaves or creating historical reproductions. Over time, copper develops a natural patina — some makers love the aged look, others prefer to keep it polished.

Stainless Steel Strong, durable and resistant to tarnish, stainless steel is a practical choice for chain maille jewellery that needs to withstand everyday life. Available in shiny, matte and black finishes, it offers flexibility in design. The only downside is it’s a bit tougher on your pliers (and your hands!).

Precious Metals (Sterling Silver, Gold, Platinum)

For those extra-special creations, precious metals are a stunning choice. Sterling silver weaves beautifully, gold brings a timeless elegance, and platinum offers unmatched durability. Naturally, they come with a higher price tag, but they’re perfect for heirloom pieces or jewellery for special occasions.

Mixed Metals Why not experiment with combining metals? Mixing copper with silver, or stainless steel with gold accents, creates striking contrasts and adds depth to your designs. Mixed metal chain maille jewellery is particularly popular with UK buyers looking for something truly unique.

2. Wire Gauge: The Thickness of Your Rings

The wire gauge refers to the thickness of your jump rings and has a direct impact on the look and strength of your weave.

• Thicker gauges = stronger, denser, and heavier jewellery.

• Thinner gauges = lighter, more delicate jewellery (though less robust).

For beginners, a mid-range gauge is a safe starting point until you get a feel for what works best.

3. Ring Size: Balancing Style and Functionality

Ring size (the inner diameter of your jump rings) will dramatically affect the outcome of your design:

• Smaller rings = dense, intricate, delicate patterns.

• Larger rings = bold, chunky and eye-catching designs.

Consider the intended use: smaller rings are brilliant for earrings or fine bracelets, while larger ones suit statement necklaces and bold cuffs.

4. Colour and Finish: Adding Character

The finish of your rings can transform your piece.

• Anodised aluminium → bright, vibrant colour options.

• Stainless steel → polished, matte or black finishes.

• Copper & bronze → natural patina develops over time, adding depth.

Mixing finishes and colours is a great way to add personality to your chain maille jewellery.

5. Budget Considerations: Balancing Cost and Quality

Your budget will naturally guide your metal choices.

• Affordable options like aluminium and copper are brilliant for learning and experimenting.

• Higher-end options like sterling silver or gold are an investment but produce jewellery that will last for generations.

It’s often worth starting with budget-friendly metals while practising new weaves, then moving on to precious metals for your signature pieces.

6. Application and Intended Use: Durability Matters

Think about the role your jewellery will play:

• Everyday wear → Stainless steel or sterling silver for durability.

• Occasional statement pieces → Aluminium or mixed metals.

• Re-enactment or cosplay → Copper or bronze for authenticity.

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In Conclusion

Choosing the best metals for chain maille jewellery is all about balancing aesthetics, strength, and cost. Whether you prefer the vibrancy of anodised aluminium, the tradition of copper, or the luxury of sterling silver, each metal brings its own character to your designs.

The joy of chain maille lies not only in the finished piece but in the creative journey of experimenting with different metals. So, grab your pliers, explore the options, and enjoy weaving your next masterpiece — one ring at a time.Chain maille, an ancient art form with a rich history, has evolved into a captivating craft for creating intricate jewellery. One of the fundamental decisions in chain maille is selecting the right metals. The choice of metal affects the appearance, durability, and overall character of your creations. In this blog, we'll explore the factors to consider when choosing metals for chain maille and highlight some popular options.